Take Stock: Say amen for Jin Ramen

The rundown

In a normal universe we'd say, "It's March, it's cold outside, and you deserve a steaming pile of noodles." But then, our universe is enjoying solar flares. Don't let the weather or intergalactic doom stop you from slurping up a bowl at Harlem's Jin Ramen, a not-be-underestimated late-comer to the city's ongoing noodle dogfight. No culinary hijinks in this tiny shop, only classic ramen-ya standbys: greasy kara-age chicken, delightfully no-name plum wine, and five varieties of the soup that launched a thousand Momofukus. You could go for the miso or the shoyu salt-bombs, but broth buffs know the art lies with the tonkotsu, a pork bone stock simmered for hours until milky with fat and meat magic, ladled over house-made noodles. Pro tip: Order an extra slice of chashu to amp up the pork factoras another marinated egg elevates your bowl to bliss-level. If the mass of starch in your stomach doesn't leave you sweating, the early spring just might.

Jin Ramen 3183 Broadway (Tiemann Pl.), Harlem (646) 559-2862 jinramen.com