Gourmet Roofies

Roof-to-table served up at Bell, Book and Candle

Sustainability: it's not just doing the bare minimum to keep your girlfriend around. Looking to redefine the term, Bell, Book and Candle grows more than half of what they plate right on the roof of their circa-1905 building. Step down off the quiet street into to the dimly lit, dark wood dining room and settle under African masks or shimmery Grecian busts. Meeting a date can start at the bar, and — should all go well — continue when sneaking off in the secret room, where walls are papered with topless vixens. Make sure to try a lush, savory salad from the hydroponic garden (and not just because of the inevitable Pineapple Express joke you can make when ordering). Diners aren’t the only ones here soaking up the booze. The chef shares the liquor cabinet with his dishes, especially in the thick drunken bean dip and gin-and-tonic wild salmon. And don't forget to end with apple pie, steaming in a cast iron skillet and topped with caramelized lace. Congratulate yourself on having mastered sustainability on all fronts. At least until her parents next come to town. Bell, Book and Candle141 W. 10th St., West Village (212) 4142355 Scene: West Village foodies of all ages Best bets: Pear salad; Maryland crab cake; Amish roasted chicken Hot seat: At the bar by the door, watching well-heeled ladies tremor down the stone stairs. Daily Dose: Surf and Turf Saturdays and Suckling Pig Thursdays