A Comfort Food Comeback

Brooklyn Star rises from the ashes

Brooklyn Star 593 Lorimer St, Williamsburg The original Brooklyn Star flamed out a year ago, burning to the ground and taking a part of your heart with it. Phoenix-like, the original comfort-food curator is out from the ashes and back in business, rebuilt to clog your arteries and smother them in Southern hospitality. Consider your heart finally whole again. Located just a few blocks away from the former site, this new version has the same tables — cut from bowling alley lanes — and all the rest of the upscale Southern trappings. Except the wood burning oven. Up front the bar scene is chill and inviting, swirling amid orders of Bitburger, Lonestar, and Tetley's English Cream Ale. Sometime around that second pint, the aroma of cornbread wafts in from the dining room. When it does, go family-style with plenty of the Brussels sprouts fried in ham and apple broth. Then down at least one order of the moist, tender ribs, braised in Dr Pepper. And that's just the small plates. For big ones, get your hands on the country fried steak, sopped in gravy. Welcome back, Brooklyn Star.